Paete is a village reminiscent of a fairy tale. The small artisan town is nestled snuggly at the base of a mountain that produces a natural spring run off flowing right through the middle of town. As with all municipalities in the Philippines you will find a lovely historical church near the center of it and at the heart of Paete you will find the makers, the magtakataks. The papier-mâché artists are why I originally visited more than two years ago. I found myself on a hike with girlfriends only twenty minutes away from Paete a few weeks back and knew this was my opportunity to return. Plus, I hadn't been able to visit Kape Kesada on my last visit and had been itching to go. 

You can read about my previous visit to Paete here. 

Kape Kesada is much more than the original cafe I thought it was. On the bottom of the newly remodeled Kape Kesada you will find a private one room art gallery. Just beyond the art gallery you will find the cafe that has both indoor and outdoor seating. While it may seem small, do not underestimate its capabilities as we had the best kesong puti we have ever tasted. A simple piece of toasted white bread with fresh cut and fresh made kesong puti layered on top of local tomatoes. During our meal the jovial owner sat with us and shared his freshly picked lanzones. He shared with delight that no lanzones were as sweet as these from his local township and I can't argue with him, they really were delicious. 

Paete is also well known for its wood carving. I have yet to find the actually wood carvers but many stores have their works for sale. This particular wood column tells a story that I regretfully have fogotten.  

Our lanzones-sharing-friend/art-gallery-curator also happens to be a dentist, along with his wife and they have a clinic on the second floor of Kape Kesada. 

The antiquated details of capiz window panels and a wooden records box added so much charm to the simple on room office. The husband and wife duo made kuwento while reminiscing about how the clinic started, their family and the tattoo she recieved a few years back from the revered Whang-Od. 

And for the cherry on top, the dentista/curator/lanzones-sharer is also a bed and breakfast owner! You can stay right at Kape Kesada in the heart of the fairytale town of Paete. And should you have any tooth pain, you know who to call. While the room is simple, the price can't be beat. I believe he said it is around 1,800php a night. 

As we said goodbye to one charming encounter we said hello to a new one. We wandered all over the few main streets in Paete. For such a small space we mananged to clock a lot of hours exploring. 

A few shops down from Kape Kesada on Quesada Street you will find the largest takatak shop with Filipiñana couple, horses, fruits, masks and some other odds and ends. The Filipiñana couple was 200php and the horses were a bit cheaper but I don't recall the exact amount. 

If you have the time wander around Quesada St., F. Sario St. and Madrinan St. to get a peek of the makers in action. 

Our meanderings were met with a welcome light drizzle as it illuminated the colors of the town. I was tickled by the heightened hues. 

Lastly, it is imperative that you visit our basket and bayong suki. The prices are unbeatable and the selection was so new to me and I have seen heaps of baskets and bayongs in my day. :) Located towards the end of Quesada street on the left you will find this shop that seemingly had no name BUT I have all the contact information for you and they ship to Manila! 

Paete, you were just as magical as before. Until next time.

Kita kits,

Amber